Custom Pokemon Chess Set

PROJECT DETAILS:

TOOLS USED:

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Overview:

2016 was a big year for me with 3D Printing. I seriously dove head first into the field. One of the first goals I had this year was to 3D print all of my Christmas Presents.  One of my favorites was the "Pokemon Chess" by roshandp1 on Thingiverse. My little cousins got a Christmas present I could only dream of as a kid.

The color scheme seemed obvious: Red vs. Blue as an homage to the original Gameboy games and the childhood rivalries over which was better.


SOME R&D FIRST:

These parts were 3D Printed using the Da Vinci Pro 3-in-1. Originally, I wanted to test individual pieces before I ran a batch of 4-6 at a time. At this time, I had only just started fine-tuning the machine's printing profile. For those that don't know, fine-tuning the machine's profile allows you to calibrate your printer to 3D print that material as best as it can. The difference is pretty astounding.

Here is an example of what calibration can do to improve the quality of your parts! This image shows the increasing quality that changing just one variable can do to make your parts look incredible.

Here is an example of what calibration can do to improve the quality of your parts! This image shows the increasing quality that changing just one variable can do to make your parts look incredible.


The Pokeball Pawn, The Squirtle Rook, the Charmander Knight and the Bulbasaur Bishop all printed well. The Pikachu had some issues, mostly with stringing. While the Kings, Mew and Mewtwo did not build well on my 3D printer.

For me, it was a realization of my 3D printer's limits on very small parts. Both the Mew and Mewtwo were too small and intricate to 3D print on my Da Vinci. Even if my 3D printer could make them, they wouldn't last long with my cousins before breaking. All being said, I think the original Kings would make great SLA parts.

The King issue was what led me to spray paint and clear coat the chess pieces. There's nothing worse than a present, or even just a chess board that has just one piece broken. It feels useless! Even if I could 3D print them another piece, it's not a good look for the company - you know what I mean? Let's make something that showcases our abilities!


MODELING THE KINGS:

MEW & MEWTWO

This, of course, meant I had to create new Mew and Mewtwo pieces from scratch. Now remember, all I did here was manipulate models someone else already made. Cool, but anyone could do this IF they have models to work with. Luckily, I found a Low poly Mew model from hairold on Thingiverse, and a Mewtwo V.2 model from Tan_Tata_Chan. I wanted to match the chess piece from the original set so I used the King piece from OpenSCAD Chess by TimEdwards.

The rest was done using 123D Design. Once I had removed the top from the King piece, I needed to make a new base for the Kings to stand on. The Mew piece was easy - just scale the model to the right size and put it in place. The Mewtwo took a little bit more work. His feet were not flat on the ground, and scaling was troublesome.

The tail was the biggest hurtle though, seeing as it hangs so far away from the part. I built a support column to hold the tail, but in the end, the piece was too small and intricate for that 3D printer. I will test it again with the Prusa i3 MK2. Again, probably would make a great SLA part.

REVISION: After making these, there are a few changes I will make to the models on GrabCAD & Thingiverse. The supports on the base of the piece are unnecessary. The bases of the pieces can be designed specifically for 3Dprinting. This will eliminate almost any post-processing, other than removing supports for the character on top. Those are necessary...for now.


3D PRINTING:

With our previous R&D, we made sure the pieces could be 3dprinted in high quality. Now, it was time to start 3D Printing these parts in batches. But how many at a time? I'd never done more than 3 of the same part at the same time before. I filled my print bed with (x8) Pokeball Pawns to see if I make the whole batch at the same time.

It turned out, (x4) parts at a time was the magic number. Anymore and there were difficulties getting them to stay remain stuck to the build plate throughout the entire print-process. This worked out in the long run since most of the pieces were in batches of (x4) anyway.

Just to give you a comparison - on my RigidBot Big, I could have printed the entire chess set in one 3dprint. It took me (x7) prints on my Da Vinci. A bigger build platform can help you make lots of parts quickly.

3D Print Settings:

Layer Height: 0.200mm

Infill: 10% (Rectalinear)

Supports: YES

Nozzle Temperature: 210*C/410*F

Bed Temperature: 50*C/122*F

Blue painter's tape was used on the printing bed, and a thin layer of Gluestick was added to make sure the whole batch of x4 parts survived the entire print process. The good thing about regular old school washable gluestick is it helps the part stick to the surface while making it easier to remove.

If just one part doesn't stick to the bed surface, the material that should be used on the missing part bundles up. Now, attached to the nozzle, this blob mess gets stuck the good part next to it. This will happen each time the machine goes to "build" that missing parts layer.

Through some R&D I figured out that I could reliably print x4 at a time. Now, months after this project, I could potentially print x8 at once. It boils down to understanding the printer that much more. I can level my Da Vinci printer so well that I only need to relevel once every 5 prints.

This is due to two things:

  • Effectively leveling the bed on the first try

  • Using somewhere near a 1/4 of the force to remove parts from the bed

What does this mean?

  • My 3D printer bed doesn't move that much, other than the expanding and contracting from the heat-up and cool-down cycles.

  • Before this, it took a serious effort to remove parts. What it takes is strategically placed pressure and force. Be smart, don't caveman it. It's a delicate machine, not a lawn mower. These are the things I tell myself, now.

FIRST EXPOSURE TO "BATCH 3D PRINTING"


CHESS BOARD:

Making a chess board was alot more gratifying than I ever thought it would be. Most of the time spent on the project was waiting bonding and staining to finish. Everything else only took a few hours combined.

I kept the chess board very simple, because I wanted the 3D printed pieces to steal the show. I used WATCO Teak oil, which penetrates the wood so that it has some added protection. It also brings out the color of each wood in subtle way.

The part I didn't expect was the sanding needed to make the board flat once the strips were glued. It was like a bunch of marble steps in a grass field, totally uneven. It was handy to have a belt sander. Otherwise, it would have taken a long time and I would've been very sore.

Thank you to Doug Mahoney for writing this Popular Mechanics article on how to build a chess and checkerboard. You saved me many hours of toying with ideas. It also got me excited to learn some more new carpentry skills.
http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/how-to-plans/how-to/g1501/how-to-build-a-chess-and-checkerboard/

I will be selling Custom Chess sets in the near future! Fully customized chess boards and sets. Once I've designed and made the first AG3D Chess set (sometime in the upcoming year) I will be accepting orders for completely custom ones!

Whether you have a design idea for one, or want a one-of-a-kind chess set made up, contact me today @ ag3d.engineering@gmail.com


SPRAY IT ON:

All of the Black PLA pieces were spray-painted using three coats of paint and one layer of clear coat enamel for extra protection and durability.

NOTE: A lot of the first layer soaked into the PLA. This was the case for both colors, and from what I've read is a common occurance when painting 3D printed PLA. The one time I marked up a prototype with a sharpie, I noticed that the ink sank into and spread along the plastic. I'm not sure why, maybe because it's a bio-plastic? (If you have an answer send me a message!)

The unpainted areas on the Red parts were more noticeable with the second coat. The Blue parts seemed more thoroughly covered before the 3rd coat, but I wanted consistent coating. This difference could have happened for a few reasons:

  • It was easier to notice Black on Red instead of Black on Blue.

OR

  • More Practice: Maybe I coated the Blue parts better the second time around

The final coat of Clear Enamel was used to give the parts some shine, but also to give the parts more rigidity. Another solid layer would help these chess pieces last longer. Thus, making sure the joys of playing Pokemon Chess can happen over and over again.

 


pokemon 3d printed chess

Here we are! Pokemon Chess.

Glorious, isn't it? I'll be making my own set at some point, because it really is a lot of fun. I couldn't help but pick them up and look at all of the layers, and think about the machine that made it. I don't want to speak for you, but I never thought about the injection molding machine that makes the plastic bowl when I'm eating cereal. Well ok, I do NOW because I've worked with them, but I'm an engineer.

That's how my mind works. But I think now with 3D printers, people are interested in the machine that made a 3D Printed part. When there is a 3D printer on display and its working, its EXTREMELY difficult to ignore. There is always either someone watching it up close or a few people giving it a glance from across the room.

There were alot of things I loved about this project. It opened up my mind to the possibilities of 3D printing, which are endless (in my opinion). I created a full product for someone, even if it was a Christmas present. This was something I would buy, and it felt like a finished project, and not a "prototype".

I learned more skills in 3D printing, Woodworking, and Project Management. Learning what it's like to be running three major projects at the same time. Learning what keeping those 3 projects progressing within a time restraint was like. There were both new and uncomfortable things for me. But all it took of me was to be honest about what's in front of me (things to get done), and planning my week around it. Then, all there was left was to follow the plan and solve any problems that came up.

But the learning didn't stop there. I learned about 3D Printer Calibration, Printing Multiple Parts at a time, manipulating STL models to create new models, building custom supports, how spray paint reacts with PLA prints, and designing parts that will last.

It seems like just a chess set, but actually creating it and making it requires so many different skills. Don't get scared of the tasks in front of you, just know that's you noticing how much work it's going to take.

Be brave, make a plan, and get after it.


Alex G. OrphanosOwner & Operator of AG3D PRintingHere's a picture of me in front of our newest 3D Printer to join the fleet!The PRUSA i3 MK2

Alex G. Orphanos
Owner & Operator of AG3D PRinting

Here's a picture of me in front of our newest 3D Printer to join the fleet!
The PRUSA i3 MK2

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Acetone, ABS & Assemblies in 3D Printing

VENTILATION SYSTEM V2

Both versions of ventilation systems used in the RaveBox 3D Printer Enclosure.  Ventilation System V2(Left) and the original Ventilation System V1. What a difference in design from V1 to V2. Similar concepts, done differently.

Both versions of ventilation systems used in the RaveBox 3D Printer Enclosure.  Ventilation System V2(Left) and the original Ventilation System V1. What a difference in design from V1 to V2. Similar concepts, done differently.


PROJECT DETAILS:

  • 3D printed a large assembly in Multiple parts

  • Bonded ABS parts with Acetone

  • Sealed de-laminated layers & seams with Acetone

  • Fixed my mistakes with a dremel

  • Used a 3D pen to patch A hole and mistakes in one of my 3D prints

  • Assembled the Ventilation system

TOOLS USED

If you're interested in doing this project for yourself, or if you want the items for your own projects - click our amazon affiliate links or the amazon banner at the bottom of the page.
you'll help support future Today In Space, LLC./AG3D projects. Thanks!


            I currently 3D-print indoors, right next to where I sleep. So, I made an enclosure to make sure I wasn’t inhaling plastic particle emissions while I slept or worked on my podcast. The frame is made of wood with inlaid glass panels for easy viewing – a good budget-friendly solution. I created the first ventilation system mount using Wood PLA on my RigidBot Big. Combined with a 150 cfm fan, it was exactly the solution I needed at the time.

            After I started gaining confidence with 3Dprinting my ambitions grew, and so did my projects and my print times. I noticed that after the 10-hour mark, there was the faintest smell of ABS plastic near the printer. Combine a bit of paranoia with the need to solve problems, and the obvious choice was to increase my airflow to 300 cfm! Another fan and another mount were now needed. So I started designing…

            The first thing I noticed was that the part would be bigger than my 3D printer could build. I tried a few different designs to see if I could make it fit. But after a few designs I decided to just print it in pieces, which is common practice in 3D printing. I split the model right in the middle, so that it was two mirrored pieces. This meant all I needed to do was build the same part twice and put them together.


3D Printing

PRINTER: XYZ Printing’s Da Vinci Pro 3-in-1

MATERIAL: Neon Green ABS

PRINT SURFACE: PEI Sheet

INFILL: 15% (Rectalinear)

LAYER HEIGHT: 0.35 mm

PRINT TIME: 15.5 Hours/Part

At first, I was having some trouble with this part. The logic was to build the part from the bonding side, so that it would be as flat as possible when I put the pieces together. But, there was warpage on two corners of the part (see pictures of failed prints).

After the first failed print, I added a base-strip to the model to keep it down, since I could always just cut it off afterwards. When that didn’t work, I had to take a serious look at my print-surface for an answer.

Up to this point, I had tremendous success with blue painters tape and glue-stick as a build surface. But there were two things causing problems:

1.     Part warpage seemed to get worse as the weather got colder. This wasn’t surprising, since my ventilation goes outside and my room is in a basement. With single pane glass, there’s no cushion of air between the panes to keep the heat from escaping.
ADDITION: After a few seasons, I've noticed the temperature can drop almost 15*F on extreme weather days.

2.     My blue painters tape and glue stick solution was doing it's job – stick to the ABS. But the warpage was pulling the tape off the heated bed (90*C).

So it seemed regardless of my available options (wider tape, more glue-stick, letting the tape sit for a day) the part was still warping. I needed a better surface.

After digging through online forums, 3D printing guides and what other 3D printer manufacturers were using, I came across the PEI surface. Polyetherimide is it’s chemical name, and its molecular formula is a repeating chain of C37H24O6N2 . The 3D printing industry found it because ABS sticks VERY WELL to it. I’ve even read that if you run your heated bed at 110*C or higher, it’ll stick so much you might ruin the PEI surface getting it off!

After using it myself, I highly recommend it (but it is pricey - one 8x8 sheet cost me $16) . If you’re new to FDM 3D printing, getting your first layer to stick and stay is everything. ABS is tricky, and shrinks when it’s cooled unevenly. If you don’t get a good adhesion on the first layer, your part WILL warp. So a surface that keeps ABS down is valuable. Even better, you get this almost glass-like surface on the bottom!


FIXING MY MISTAKES...WITH A DREMEL

I do want to share the mistakes I made and the solutions I found to fix them. Even though I end up swearing up a storm when I find out I made a mistake. Failure is always a great opportunity to see what you're capable of.

This wonderful screw-up was due to the fact that I was up late designing and just wanted to get the part printing ASAP. I forgot to look at the bottom of my part, where my fan would be connected. The circle here is just the hole from the top, cut all the way to the bottom. But, it should be a 4.5" circle on the bottom surface, the same size as the fan blades.

Luckily, I had a dremel handy and used a rotary bit to slowly rip material away. I wasn't about to waste all this plastic, and no one will see this area once it's assembled.

Alas, I'm not great with a rotary tool yet and I ended up puncturing a hole through the side. Another fix. Sometimes, problems are like that cartoon where they try to plug up a hole on a sinking boat. Once you plug up one hole, another leaky hole starts.


FILLING A HOLE...WITH A 3D Pen

A 3D pen is a great tool for creating 3D objects free-hand. But it's also a great tool for filling holes, gouges, etc. with your 3D prints. Simply plug it in, heat it up, wait for the green light, load the filament and you're up and running! 3D printers are obviously better at making precise parts, and I could use some practice with my 3D pen hand.

I used a different color so the filled areas would be easier to see, but I could easily have used the same colored material as the part. The blue ABS dried quickly, and it stuck to the original print as if it was part of the original piece. The important thing to remember here is to use the same material as the part (i.e. Use ABS with ABS, and PLA with PLA, etc. Color difference shouldn't matter)


ACETONE BONDING & SEALING

*I did this part outside, while wearing a particle mask. Always make sure you are in a well ventilated space when using acetone and chemically changing any plastics - CHECK MSDS SHEETS!!!*

Acetone is a well known way to bond ABS plastic together. It can also help you smooth out build layers, seal edges, and give you a shiny finish as well. For each process, you might need a different tool to get the job done.

The first issue: There were a few layers in my print that had separated. This is called "de-lamination", and ABS is very susceptible to this, especially with a part this big. Luckily, this can be fixed up with some acetone and a smoothing pen.

The smoothing pen is simply a foam brush tip marker. Fill it with acetone, push the tip in when you need more acetone, and apply pressure as you need it. The more acetone and the more pressure you use, the more the plastic is removed and gets mixed into an ABS "juice". With some practice you get the hang of the dynamics and sealing these de-laminated layers was easy.

For bonding the two pieces together, I used a paint brush to apply the acetone. The acetone was drying VERY quickly. I only had one shot at bonding these pieces together. So I made sure to be generous with acetone to give myself time to put them together. All I needed to do was hold the parts together with some even pressure for maybe 15 seconds. The part bonded extremely well, and fast.

Then, I used the smoothing pen to fill any seals from the two part connection to ensure the air didn't escape. I also noticed that I didn't like how there were just patches of shiny areas where I spot welded. So I used the paintbrush to apply a shiny surface and give it a more "complete" look. The geometry of the part made this easy.

All in all, acetone is a very valuable and versatile tool when dealing with ABS.

ADDITIONAL WORK

In order to mount the fans, I marked and then drilled holes for the mounting bolts I had from the previous ventilation fan project. I chose a small drill bit first, to get the positioning. Then, a larger drill bit that was slightly smaller than the bolt itself. This made it easier for the bolts to catch and guide themselves in snugly.

The four (x2 per fan) mounting holes towards the center of the body simply threaded into the assembly. I used four bronze knurled hand turn nuts for the four mounting bolts on the outside of the part to keep them in place. It added a nice, professional look to the whole assembly.

The fans needed a small adjustment. With a drill bit I opened up the mounting screw holes, since they were too small for the bolts I was using. I also used a step drill bit to allow the bolts to sit flush with the surface of the fan, so they "disappeared". It also gave me the extra threads the knurled hand turn nut needed to properly catch and secure the fans.

I mounted the fan using four wood screws guided by the built-in mounting brackets on the top of the part.


NEW VENTILATION SYSTEM IN ACTION

Here is a video of the new ventilation setup in my 3D printing box.

I absolutely love the new dual mount. I look at it every time I go to 3Dprint. It's incredible that I made that - it's my design!

I learned a lot throughout this project. If I hadn't messed up a few things, I never would have needed to improvise to find solutions. With each project, I learn new things and get better as a Maker. Even quicker, if I make mistakes and learn from them

If you enjoyed the project, please like the post and share it with others!

Thank you,
Alex G. Orphanos